How to get clear skin: what works, what doesn't, and how long it takes

What causes breakouts?

Acne starts when pores get clogged. The NHS explains that excess oil and dead skin cells block hair follicles. Bacteria can then multiply inside them. The AAD notes that during puberty, hormones called androgens make the oil glands larger, so they make more oil.

Some things don't cause acne but can make it worse. The AAD says stress cannot cause acne but may worsen existing acne. Smoking, too little sleep, oily makeup, oily hair products like pomade, and some foods can also play a part.

Hormones are why acne often flares in the teen years and around periods. The AAD says teenage boys may break out into their early to mid 20s, and some women have acne into their 40s.

Source: American Academy of Dermatology: what causes acne

Is clear skin genetic?

Partly. The AAD says your risk of deep, painful acne is higher if a close blood relative had it. So genes affect how oily your skin is and how strongly it reacts to clogged pores.

Genes do not decide everything. People with acne-prone skin still get clearer skin with the right treatment, and the AAD says starting early lowers the risk of scars. If acne runs in your family, start treatment sooner rather than waiting for it to pass.

Source: American Academy of Dermatology: acne overview

Acne types and the first step for each

The right product depends on the type of spot. Look closely in a mirror in daylight and match what you see to this table. Most people have more than one type.

Source: American Academy of Dermatology: how to treat different types of acne

A clear skin routine, morning and night

A clear skin routine is short. The AAD recommends washing twice a day and after sweating, with a gentle cleanser and your fingertips. Moisturize after washing, and choose products labeled non-comedogenic or 'won't clog pores'.

1. Morning: wash with a gentle cleanser, or a benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid wash.
2. Morning: apply a non-comedogenic moisturizer.
3. Morning: apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher. Some acne treatments make skin more sensitive to the sun.
4. Night: wash again to remove sweat, oil, and sunscreen.
5. Night: apply a thin layer of your acne treatment, such as adapalene, to the whole area where you break out.
6. Night: finish with moisturizer if your skin feels dry.

Source: American Academy of Dermatology: acne tips for managing breakouts

Skincare routine for men

A simple skincare routine

What helps acne: benzoyl peroxide, adapalene, and salicylic acid

Three ingredients you can buy without a prescription do most of the work. The NHS also suggests trying benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid first, and asking a pharmacist for advice.

Source: American Academy of Dermatology: acne that won't clear

How to use acne products so they actually work

Most acne products fail because people use them wrong, not because the product is bad. These steps follow the AAD's advice.

1. Pick one or two products. Using many at once irritates skin.
2. Apply a thin layer over all the skin where you break out, not just on the spots.
3. Use it as often as the label says, at the same time each day.
4. Use it for 6 to 8 weeks before you decide if it works.
5. If nothing changes after 4 to 6 weeks, add a product with a different active ingredient.
6. Keep using it after your skin clears to stop new breakouts.

Source: American Academy of Dermatology: 10 skin care habits that can worsen acne

Does diet affect acne? What the evidence says

Diet matters a little, and the evidence is not clear. The AAD says small studies suggest a low-glycemic diet may reduce acne, but other studies found no link. High-glycemic foods include white bread, sugary drinks, chips, and sweets.

Milk has a stronger signal. The AAD cites a study where women who drank 2 or more glasses of skim milk a day were 44% more likely to have acne. No studies have linked yogurt or cheese to more breakouts. If you think a food is a trigger, cut it for 6 to 8 weeks and see if anything changes. Diet alone will not clear acne. The AAD says acne-friendly skin care and treatment are still needed.

Source: American Academy of Dermatology: can the right diet get rid of acne?

Daily habits that help clear skin

Small habits stop you from undoing your treatment. The first four come straight from AAD guidance. The last two have little direct research, but they cost almost nothing.

• Keep your hands off your face. The AAD says picking and squeezing slows healing and raises the risk of scars and dark spots.
• Wash after you sweat, and pat sweat off with a clean towel rather than rubbing it.
• Shampoo often if your hair is oily, and keep oily hair products away from your forehead.
• Use makeup, sunscreen, and hair products labeled non-comedogenic, and remove makeup before bed.
• Change your pillowcase every few days if you break out on one side of your face.
• Wipe your phone screen, since it rests against your cheek.

Source: American Academy of Dermatology: acne tips for managing breakouts

What doesn't help: toothpaste, scrubs, and other myths

Some popular fixes make acne worse. Toothpaste is for teeth, not skin. Cleveland Clinic explains that the old reason for using it no longer applies to modern toothpastes. It can cause redness, stinging, burning, and irritation.

Harsh scrubs and washing many times a day also backfire. The AAD warns against scrubbing, astringents, and rubbing alcohol, which dry skin and can make acne look worse. Popping spots pushes material deeper, which increases inflammation, pain, and scarring.

• Toothpaste on pimples: irritates skin. Use a benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid spot treatment instead.
• Scrubs and brushes: irritate skin and can worsen acne.
• Washing more than twice a day: dries skin. Wash twice, plus after sweating.
• Changing products every week: irritates skin and hides what works.
• Tanning to dry out spots: the AAD says it raises skin cancer risk and can worsen acne.

Source: Cleveland Clinic: why you should not put toothpaste on pimples

How to get clear skin fast

There is no overnight fix for acne. Acne treatments need weeks to work. What you can do fast is calm what you already have and stop making it worse.

For a single pimple, use a spot treatment and leave it alone. For a big, painful lump before an event, a dermatologist can inject a corticosteroid. The AAD says this can also reduce the risk of a scar. For the rest of your face, start your routine today and stick with it.

• Leave the spot alone. Picking makes it redder and slower to heal.
• Dab on a benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid spot treatment at night.
• Hold a clean cool compress on a swollen spot for a few minutes to calm redness.
• Sleep a full night and skip heavy makeup on the spot if you can.
• Book a dermatologist early if you get painful lumps often.

Source: American Academy of Dermatology: how dermatologists treat acne

Dark spots and acne scars

Flat dark or red marks after a pimple are not true scars. They often fade over months. The AAD says a retinoid or azelaic acid can help lighten these dark spots, and daily sunscreen stops them from getting darker.

Pitted or raised scars are different. Creams do little for them. A dermatologist can treat them with procedures. The best way to avoid them is to treat deep acne early and not pick.

Source: American Academy of Dermatology: how dermatologists treat acne

When to see a dermatologist

Over-the-counter products clear mild acne for many people. See a dermatologist if any of the points below apply. The NHS gives the same advice for a GP visit, and adds that you should get help if acne affects your mental health.

• You have deep, painful nodules or cysts.
• Acne is leaving scars or dark marks.
• You've used over-the-counter treatment for 2 to 3 months with little change.
• Acne is affecting your mood or how often you go out.

Source: NHS: acne treatment

Track your skin progress with Lookist

Acne clears slowly, so it is easy to think nothing is working. Photos fix that, but only if they are taken the same way. Lookist reads one front photo and scores four skin features: skin clarity, skin texture, skin tone, and skin radiance. Each score has a written note.

Scan every two weeks or so in the same window light, at the same distance, with no filter. Scan history lets you compare past scans over time. The daily glow-up plan turns your results into skin care tasks you can check off. A photo score describes how skin looks in a picture. It is not a diagnosis, so see a dermatologist for the cases listed above.

How to take a consistent face photo

Track facial changes over time

How to glow up in 30 days